Oct 202016
 

A different, non-Linux story today. I own Peugeot 4007 4×4 SUV – a nice car that drives remarkably well and is generally highly regarded by the whole family. I would probably never buy a French car (no offence, my dear French audience) but this one is made in Japan, in the exactly same plant as Mitsubishi Outlander and Citroen C-Crosser. All of these three cars look almost exactly the same, the difference being engine fitted and few details outside. 4007 (AKA four double O seven) and C-Crosser (AKA crossdreser) siblings are fitted with an excellent 2.2 HDI FAP* engine, a powerful and lively unit.

Now, to the point – my engine was seemingly running fine but, as I love tinkering with stuff, I hooked up ELM237 based Bluetooth OBD dongle into diagnostic socket to see if there are any errors recorded. After starting Torque it turned out that there are indeed two faults stored, P1351 and P2408. Googling these faults took me to Peugeot owners forum where it was revealed that

P1351, idm input circuit malfunction,
P2408, fuel cap sensor / switch circuit.

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First problem relates to faulty glow plug/plugs. Although it’s quite still warm outside (they aren’t normally needed, only when temp drops to around 0C, allegedly) in this particular engine glow plugs are used to initiate and help with FAP* regeneration cycle, by bringing up temp in exhaust manifold and burn soot accumulated in filter. As far as I understand.

If you are hit with this issue a general advice is to check the relevant relay in engine compartment fuse box first and if that’s OK – replace all four glow plugs. Not so easy to change them if you don’t have a ramp as they sit on the bottom front of the engine. Certainly not a job that can be done on the driveway, besides, glow plugs have a nasty tendency to snap when they’re being removed which turns a simple job into a horror story. I can do simple stuff but this, no thank you. I decided to entrust with this bit to a local garage.

A day later, glow plugs replaced but faults despite clearing are coming back. Hmmm…. OK, lets leave this for now and focus on part two.

Second fault, fuel cap sensor. Why a fuel cap needs a sensor in the first place? It’s because every time you put a diesel into a tank, a tiny amount of special additive (eolys) is being injected into a tank. It helps to lower down fumes burn temperature to assist above mentioned FAP regeneration cycle. Something like that.

Now, how did I fix the second problem? Before diving into locating and replacing this sensor I tried to: check cap to see if there are still two magnets, remove fuel cap, start engine, switched off engine, put the cap back on. Started engine again and went for a short spin to the town. Now the best part. After connecting OBD and running diagnostic again result was: oh my Lord, no stored faults!

Not sure what is logic/magic behind this. I read something that ECU needs some time, few start stop cycles to remove faults. Re fuel cap, maybe ECU lost signal and only removing cap “reset” the system? Anyway, it was somehow related to glow plugs as these problems often show up on Peugeot forums in pairs.

Hope this will help someone who is facing similar problem. Those cars are not so popular, information on the internet are scarce and not very clear. Here with a cheap OBD dongle, cheap Android app I managed to diagnose and solve a problem that would normally result in hefty charge from Peugeot dealer.

* To clarify, stop giggling already – FAP is French for DPF (Diesel Particulate Filter). FAP catches diesel particulates in a silicon carbide filter. It then eliminates them by burning at a high temperature in a ‘regeneration’ process controlled by the engine’s computer.

Feb 032016
 

Intro

I wanted to enable Bluetooth hands-free talk and music streaming in my Corolla Verso and because I’m very pleased with Yatour interface I use in my other car I decided to go down the same route.

For Toyota Corolla Verso 1.8 2005 T3 we need Yatour YT-M06 BTM which is around £70 delivered (Amazon UK).

In order to hook it up we need to access back panel of the car radio unit first, to plug the cable provided by Yatour into CD-changer socket.

It’s not that difficult to get it fitted so I hope this guide will help someone.

 

Dismantling

First use a knife or spatula to pry and remove side panels

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Disconnect cigarette lighter

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Continue with plastic panel on left hand side

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Removing AC controller

Just two Philips screws and then disconnect two plugs

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Finally, radio unit

Two screws on the bottom and two at the sides.

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Ideally get a 10mm magnetic nut driver with extension bar as two side screws are no so easy to reach.

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CD-changer cable provided in the box:

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Plug the white bit into a socket at the back of the radio – there is only one that is matching shape!

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Put it back together in reverse order

Plug the other end of the CD-changer cable into Yatour unit. Plug in a Bluetooth module cable as well.

Turn on the radio and press CD twice to switch to Yatour, you can now listen to music from SD card or stream it from your phone.

Notes

  • Make sure your SD card is formatted with FAT
  • Make sure your folders are named appropriately (CD01, CD02, up to CD15 I believe).
  • Music is playing in the wrong order? It’s because Yatour disregards file names! File creation dates (timestamp) is what matters, there are tools to set timestamps get around this problem. On Linux you can use `touch` in the loop or something.
  • Once phone is paired via Bluetooth with Yatour, in order to receive a phone call press Next (Forward) on the steering wheel. To finish press Next again. To reject keep Next for 3sec.

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Here is where I attached Bluetooth module using double sided sticky tabs.Used same pads to secure Yatour unit, I keep it in space between handbrake and gear stick.

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Microphone is on the A pillar close to the roof

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Video here:

 

And gallery here

 

Leave a comment if you found this guide useful 😉